js: Convert menus to use semantically appropriate HTML elements

Presets are now radio buttons with labels, and menu items that take
actions are now buttons.  The <li> representing each menu item is now a
thin wrapper around another element: a <label> for radio buttons, a
<button> for other buttons, and a <div> for submenu headings.  All of
the things that previously applied to the <li> now apply to that inner
element instead.

This means that presets can now use the standard "checked" attribute to
indicate which one is selected, and buttons can be disabled using the
standard "disabled" attribute.  It also means that we can query and set
the state of all the presets at once through their RadioNodeList.

I think this should also make the menus more accessible, and make it
easier to make them keyboard-controllable.

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